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Last update July 01 2013
It's early June as I start this update, still a few days in Aruba before we fly back to our JoHo in Guadeloupe. Our days are filled with work and posting at a turtle nest on the beach. Unfortunately we were not in time, the nest was already empty before we came but there was still one hatchling in the nest, got that one on film.
On June 6th, we got into the plane and flew via Miami and Puerto Rico to Guadeloupe. The trip was nice and quiet, on arrival in Guadeloupe we were pleasantly surprised at the customs, one look in our passports and we where through (definately beats the 3-hour treatment of the US customs on our way to Aruba). Outside the airport Greg was already waiting for us with his car. We were glad to finally get back to JoHo again.
This was the Plan for the next days: Friday we stocked JoHo, Saturday cleaning the bottom of JoHo at Ilet Caret, Sunday sail to Deshaies for internet and Monday leave to head south. And we sailed on Monday to the Les Saintes Islands we had a lot of rain with thunderstorms and lots of wind. With wind we mean force 8, gusts of 9. The sea changed in no time from flat to one with short, big breaking waves. End of that day we were so happy to drop our anchor in a quit bay in Les Saintes.
We needed one day of rest before check out, so we walked on Les Saintes, which reminded us of one of the small french tourist csssssssoastal towns on the atlantic side of France. Relaxed, plenty of entertainment, very cozy, in one word nice.
After checking out we made the boat in order for an early departure. In the evening a Belgian couple came along for a drink. Not too early bedtime...
After a rough crossing with lots of rain we anchored on June 12th in Portsmouth, Dominica where Pat and Darnell of Island Dream were waiting for us. They came aboard JoHo and we chatted and made plans for the next days. The weather didn't look good for the next few days, so we didn't sail on and had time for an island tour. First we checked in in Dominica and reseverd a car before having a BBQ onboard Island Dream. How nice to meet old friends along the road.
It is Thursday, June 13th and we travelled with our dinghy between rainshowers to the shore. It's pouring in Dominica. Pat and Darnell are already waiting for us. With our rental car and Pat as driver we went slowly to the capital Roseau. It's a poor island if you compare it to the other Caribbean islands. People still live in shacks.
Dominica is known for its pristine rainforest, everything is green and to keep it this way it has to rain a lot. Regularly we saw a boulder on the road or a mudslide that blocked the way. In Roseau we stopped for lunch and a short tour, but Roseau is past glory according to our humble opinion. So we went on to the Trafalgar Falls in Morne Trois Pitons National Park.
Dominica really is the island of the falls. Upon arrival at Trafalgar Park we saw three waterfalls instead of two, because of the heavy rainfall last weeks. These waterfalls plunge with a huge noise down. The rain continued, the hiking trails towards Freshwater lake and Boeri lake were impassable, pity. We drove back to our boats.
The next day it is dry and we drive north. A narrow road leads us through the rainforest to the east of Dominica. We stop at a number of locations where the film Pirates of the Caribbean was filmed. You understand immediately why these locations were selected. Through the Carib Territory where descendants of the Carib Indians live we drove to the Emerald pool with it's clear blue-green water.
From the west side of the island we went on a narrow road in to the Syndicate Estate with an other waterfall. The hike to the waterfall was very strenuous, halfway we lost the trail but we reached the waterfall after John found a jungle path through a steep and slippery forest. The waterfall was a little disappointing. The walk back through the water was a better idea and after this hike we needed a late drink at the yacht club in Portsmouth where we also met Ingrid and Ben of SY Blabber.
Saturday afternoon we went on the Indian River Tour with Pat and Darnell. Albert our guide rowed us on the Indian River, he told plenty about the plants and animals that live and grow around the river. Through green tunnels we continue upward the river. The Indian river was also a location for the Pirates of the Caribbean movie. Notably the scene in the forest swamp house at the good witch... We saw beautiful flowers and the scent filled our noses, kingfishers flew around and small crabs waved their scissors to us. In a Jungle bar we stopped for a cocktail before we paddled back. Nice and very educative (and a good punch too).
On Thursday 20th of June JoHo left the harbor of Portsmouth very early and sailed to Martinique to stock up again before leaving for St Lucia. Saturday morning we were in Le Marin, shopping and on Sunday we sailed on to St.Lucia where we stopped in Marigot Bay to see Anja and Kees from Cat Tokeh Baroe. We met them two years ago in Portugal and a lot has happened in those years. So we enjoyed their company (and Anja's doughter and family) and talked about our adventures before we said our goodbyes again. We need to get south, to Trinidad after all.
Monday morning early, around three o'clock in the morning, we withdraw from Marigot Bay to our next location, Bequia in the Grenadines. Here we see SY Pipe muh Bligh and Cat Anne Bonny again. This is also the place to catch a little breath. We need some rest before continuing again and the weather again is pretty foul for coming week. They don't call it hurricane season for nothing.
The anchorage in Bequia is beautiful though and again we have a lot of fun with the group. For us this is the first time we are on these islands. We expect a lot from the Grenadines and I will write about them next month.
I finished a special photobook, about our travels 10 years JoHo's travel from 2001 to 2011.
Curious ? Then click the link.
And if you're interested in sailing the BAHAMAS, BERMUDA, MALDIVES, BONAIRE or SURINAME have a look at our books at SAILADVENTURES where the books are available online.
You can always mail us for more info on these cruising grounds or cruising in general, we'll gladly help you out.
JoHo is on anchor in Admiralty Bay, Bequia, the Grenadines at 13°00'0 N - 61°14'7 W.
Sailing the Caribbean mainly. As poor
JoHo has been neglected somewhat lately, we are looking for a place to haul out and get some jobs done.
Our floating home and office is always ready for us to work for ourselves as writers and editors compiling cruising guides on our way.
We'll see how things will run, life's too complicated to plan anyways. Live life to the max, it can be over before you know it is our slogan.
John and Jolanda